The Best of Salalah
The first venture of today was to visit Mugsail Beach because there are some impressive blow-holes in the rocky cliffs in this area. Interesting drive through some relatively rough limestone hills.
There was a comic delay due to a herd of camels that insisted on weaving back and forth across the road. Omani law protects camel owners if a driver hits a camel during the day, driver gets protected if it happens at night. So, we had to creep through and past this herd. Our guide regaled us with "camel lore" including camel beauty contests and "naughty" male camels who try to steal milk from their mothers even though they are adults at that point.
Unfortunately the tide was out so the blow-holes were not performing, but it was interesting to see what little there was.
On our way to the local "souq" we drove past a number of plantings of frankincense trees.
Oman is one of 3 or 4 places in the world that can grow frankincense, so I decided that the best souvenir to get would be some frankincense. After asking the guide for advice on what to get (there are 5 kinds/grades of the stuff) I rambled into the souk. Not having a clue as to how to pick a good "shop" I chose one by "felt right". The place was tiny and the merchant had a minimal command of English – all honor to him as I have no command of Arabic. Anyway, he managed to convey that "green" frankincense was the best quality, and since I liked the way it looked, that is what I bought. I showed it to the tour guide and asked him what he thought of it. Sounding slightly astonished, he said I had gotten the very best quality and at a very good price. So, now we will have to see what it smells like when I get home. It is supposed to have medicinal properties, but I don't know what they are at this point.
The archaeological site of Al-Baleed looked as though it was just beginning to be excavated, but the museum which was adjacent to it was fascinating. I could have spent a lot of time there (certainly more than we had).
The first section contained materials excavated from various archaeological sites around Oman, including Al-Baleed. It had information on the geological history as well as the historical and anthropological history of Oman. The second section contained a history of Frankincense, and the third section was on the history of ocean-going boats built by the Omani. Way too much to take in during the short time period allowed. I did manage to acquire an Omani incense burner from their gift shop.
After lunch we went to Khor Rori Creek, which is thought to be the ancient city of Sumhuram. An Italian University is conducting on-going excavations there and the government of Oman is building a large amphitheater nearby to house presentations and a museum.
This site was originally thought to be the palace of the Queen of Sheba. Now the thinking is that it was a major trading port for her. The excavations have so far found exterior walls (3-4 meters thick), large store-rooms for frankincense, living quarters and a temple.
At the time this compound was built, the sand bar which currently prevents the sea water from entering the lake below the site did not exist ,so ships would have sailed directly up to the lower walls of the city to load and unload cargo.
I find Oman fascinating and diverse. The people are friendly. No matter what they build, it is done with grace and beauty – even the homes for the poor. The Sultan Qaboos is a profoundly impressive person and ruler. Very seldom have I heard people speak with such admiration and pride about their ruler. The ones I encountered seem to truly love and respect him. He in his turn seems to be genuinely concerned about the well-being of his people. Government and personal monies are routinely spent in ways which benefit all citizens. Like the UAE, the government pays for health-care and education for all. The infrastructure already in place, as well as what is being built, is both beautiful and functional. I have never seen anywhere in the U.S. (although it might exist) where the lamp poles along the highways are beautiful. I am amazed.
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